big-wave1

Salty Therapy

That which rids of the taunting noises inside my head,

the answer to peace of mind.

I am reminded as I paddle for a wave

of this beautiful remedy of mankind.

Silencing the angry emotions yelling inside me,

this is where I truly feel alive.

The entire racket giving me a headache

muted as I duck-dive.

But that glorious feeling I get after a good ride

subsides once I have left the ocean.

The mean feelings no longer hide

as serenity turns into commotion.

©Lara. All rights reserved

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSK7j2ovSP8

Dick Dale and the Del-Tones, ‘Surfin’ Rebel,’ from the 1964 album, Summer Surf

 

A Smaller Galaxy

Sitting on a board

Ready to stand and catch my first rush

But alas, I stumble, distracted by the brighter star

Falling to the sum of all my parts

As the power of the moon taunts me with it’s force

Tossed in one direction

Pulled in the next

Crystal Blue Persuasion washes away my nightmares and inhibitions

And I am set alight.

©Corrina Akiko. All rights reserved

Dick Dale, live on The Ed Sullivan Show, 1963, performs a medley of his now-classic tunes, including ‘Swingin’ and Surfin’’ and ‘Misirlou’

 

Life of a Surfer

A weathered surfboard

perfect water formations

and a memory

©Dan Winter. All rights reserved

 

Surfer

waves crash as

you disappear in the swell

frantic search

and there you are

rising on a curve of froth

coming on at such a speed

the ocean is no longer separating

you and me

floating on a bed of salt

buoyancy and light

surround us like

the smiles all around

an unspoken agreement

carried on a soft breeze

how great it would be

if we never had to leave

©Brooke Kollman. All rights reserved

Dick Dale and Stevie Ray Vaughan in their classic encounter on ‘Pipeline,’ from Back to the Beach (1987, starring Frankie Avalon and Annette Funicello)

 

The Web and Flow of Surfing

The adrenaline is the best,

hands steady, mind intent and curious.

I’m put to the test,

as I navigate my way.

As I surf, I’m always wary of the risks,

I hold my breath with excitement – don’t get sucked in.

The fun is never knowing what I will discover.

Just below the glassy surface, danger lurks.

Always fearing a crash, caused by some unknown predator,

or the chance that my power could fail at any moment,

catapulting me into a world of darkness.

In this sea filled with adventure,

I float lazily,

stopping occasionally to look at something,

and then moving on.

Summer is short and the days grow shorter.

Soon school will begin again,

and there will be no time for surfing.

With a click of the mouse,

my ocean of information is closed.

Stuck alone at home all summer,

at least I had surfing.

©SeaGreenGirl. All rights reserved

Dick Dale and the Del-Tones with the surf version of ‘Boney Moronie’ (1965)

 

Ode to Surf

Crashing wave, power, intensity.

Pushing me forward into the teeth of uncertainty.

Exhilsration over comes as i stand and,

For a moment i’m locked in a near perfect state of being.

My troubles fall away and,

I’m whole if only for a fleeting moments reflection.

My determination is made new,

I throw myself back through in my search for your salty perfection.

©thasource. All rights reserved

Riding the Wedge, the dirty old Wedge, in Newport Beach, CA

Riding the Wedge, the dirty old Wedge, in Newport Beach, CA